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Binoculars offer a number of advantages for stargazing. They are
portable, easy to use, and provide wide-field views. There are objects
which can be seen in binoculars that are difficult to view with a telescope.
The Pleiades star cluster or the Andromeda Galaxy, for example, are too large to
fit in the field of view of a typical telescope but are easily seen in a pair of
binoculars. Binoculars are often recommended for beginning amateur
astronomers, but there are also a number of misconceptions about binoculars for
stargazing. Read on to learn all about binocular astronomy!
Advantages of Binoculars for Stargazing
Binoculars can be the easiest stargazing tool (aside from the unaided eye).
You simply pick them up and look around. They are highly portable, making
them well suited to traveling astronomers and anyone who wants to just run
outside and view the stars for a few minutes.
Aside from their portability and ease of use, the primary advantage of
binoculars is the wide field of view they provide. This makes sweeping the
sky very simple. There are many objects which look better in binoculars
than in a telescope, due to the large size of these objects. A typical
telescope field of view is about 1 degree, or twice the size of the full moon.
Many deep sky objects are actually larger than this. This seems
counterintuitive at first; how can an object so far away look bigger than the
moon? Despite its relative proximity, the moon is vastly smaller than any
deep sky object, so even though they are far away, many
nebulae, galaxies, and
star clusters appear quite large.

Above: The Andromeda Galaxy, an ideal target for binoculars
The Andromeda Galaxy is a classic example. It appears six times as
large as the full moon, three degrees across! Despite being 70 trillion
times farther away than the moon, Andromeda appears this large because it is
also 420 trillion times bigger than the moon! Andromeda's
three-degree diameter makes it three times larger than a typical low-power
telescope field. Binoculars, on the other hand, typically have fields of
view in the range of 5-7 degrees, easily allowing the full extent of the
Andromeda Galaxy to be seen.
Another primary advantage of binoculars is that they can be well-suited to
multiple tasks. A good pair of stargazing binoculars will often be
excellent for birdwatching, hunting, hiking, and watching sporting events.
Some people find viewing with two eyes to be much more comfortable than the
usual one-eyed view through a telescope. This makes binoculars more
comfortable to use. However, most experienced observers would say
they find viewing with one eye to be fine, especially after having done it for
so long. And for observers who find two-eyed viewing to be much more
preferable, a binocular viewer may be added to a telescope to allow viewing with
both eyes.
Disadvantages of Binoculars for Stargazing
The primary drawback to binocular stargazing is the limited magnification of
binoculars. Most binoculars have magnifications in the range of 7x to 10x.
While this is ideal for wide-field viewing, it is not nearly enough to resolve
detail on the planets or in small star clusters. Higher power binoculars
are available, but there is a significant trade-off. First of all, the highest power binoculars only provide about 25x magnification. Even a
small telescope is capable of 50x to 100x or more. Also, increasing the
magnification of a binocular decreases the brightness of the image, unless the
objective lenses are increased in size to compensate (see below). This
means that high-power binoculars require large lenses and therefore are quite
large and heavy. For this reason alone, high-power binoculars require the
use of a tripod.
Additionally, high-power binoculars (usually anything over 10x) are not
easily hand-held, even if they are light enough and small enough. Few
observers can hold even a 10x binocular steady, let alone a 25x pair.
Again, a tripod is required. A large, heavy, expensive pair of binoculars
that requires the use of a tripod tends to defeat the purpose of binoculars for
stargazing: having a portable, easy-to-use setup. At some point,
having a telescope becomes more practical. That said, many people like
large, high-power binoculars for wide-field viewing to compliment their
telescope. However, these observers often have a smaller, portable pair of
binoculars as well, and the large binoculars are treated more like a type of
telescope.
Types of Binoculars
The simplest way to think of binoculars is as a set of two very small
refracting telescopes. There is a lens at the front and an eyepiece at the
back. The difference is primarily that binoculars use prisms to fold the
light path, making them more compact. There are two basic types of binoculars
based on the type of prisms used.

Above: Porro prism (left) and roof prism binoculars
Porro prism binoculars, like those pictured above on the left, have offset
prisms resulting in the familiar "bent" shape of many binoculars. Roof prism
binoculars still fold the light through prisms, but do so without offsetting the
light path. This results in a more compact design. Below are optical
diagrams of the internal workings of each binocular type.

Above: Optical diagram of one half of a porro prism binocular. Light is
focused by the objective lens (left side), through two prisms which offset the
light path, and to the eyepiece (lower right).

Above: Optical diagram of one half of a roof prism binocular. Light is
focused by the objective lens (left), through two prisms which keep the light
path straight, and to the eyepiece (right). Note the extra reflection
within the prisms versus the porro prism design above.
All thing being equal (which they rarely are), porro prisms can give a
slightly better image than a roof prism. This is because of the extra
reflection within the roof prisms which causes a slight loss of light. In
actuality, roof prism binoculars offer many advantages for other applications
(such as birding and hunting), including compactness and close-focus ability.
For these reasons, roof prism binoculars are often the top-of-the-line models in
many manufacturers' product lines. Often roof prism binoculars will
outperform porro prisms because better glass and coatings go into the roof type
because of their popularity.
However, for stargazing, a good pair of porro prism binoculars are often the
best choice. The advantages of a roof prism are less important for
astronomy. But one of the advantages of binoculars is that they are
excellent dual-purpose instruments. Many astronomers use their binoculars
for birdwatching and other activities, so a purchase is made with multiple uses
in mind.
Choosing Binoculars for Stargazing
Every binocular has two numbers in its description, such as 7x50 or 10x25 or
25x100. The first number is the magnification. 7x binoculars, for
example, magnify everything 7 times. The second number indicates the
diameter (or aperture) of the objective lens in millimeters. So, a 7x50 binocular has
50mm (2") objective lenses, while a 25x100 has 100mm (4") objective lenses.
(The exception to this is zoom binoculars, which we strongly recommend
against for stargazing, for reasons given below. Zooms will have three
numbers, such as 10-30x50, indicating the magnification range as well as
objective diameter.)
Exit Pupil
Just as with a telescope, the larger the
objective lens, the more light the
binocular will gather. However, there is another important factor to
consider when choosing binoculars: exit pupil. The exit pupil of a
binocular is easily determined. Simply take the objective diameter and
divide by the magnification. 7x50 binoculars would then have a 50/7 =
7.1mm diameter exit pupil. Generally speaking, the exit pupil determines
the brightness of the view through the binoculars. A larger exit pupil
means a brighter image, with certain exceptions. Therefore, all things
being equal, a 7x50 binocular with its 7.1mm exit pupil will be brighter than a
25x100 binocular with its 4mm exit pupil, despite the larger objective size.
So, the obvious extension of the exit pupil idea would be to keep increasing
the diameter of the exit pupil to make the image brighter. Unfortunately,
there is limit to the size of exit pupil that is effective. The pupil of
the human eye, when dark adapted, has a diameter of no more than about 7mm.
And this number assumes young, healthy eyes. Older observers tend to have
pupils only 5mm in diameter or so. The maximum 7mm diameter of the eye's
pupil means that any exit pupil larger than 7mm would be wasted. This is
the reason you never see, say, 7x70 binoculars which would have a 10mm exit
pupil. In this case the human eye would restrict the exit pupil to 7mm and
the effect would be like having a pair of 7x50s, only heavier and more
expensive!
An alternate argument is that if many observers have pupils that only open to
5mm, why even use a 7x50? Wouldn't a 10x50, with a perfectly matched 5mm
exit pupil, be better? While the 10x50 and 7x50 might have the same
brightness for observers with smaller pupils, there are still several advantages
to the 7x50s. For one, the 7x50s have a wider field of view than the
10x50s, which is always an advantage. More important, the 7-power
binoculars will be much easier to hand hold than the 10-power, because they will
appear to shake less due to the lower magnification. The difference
between 7x and 10x is very minimal when it comes to stargazing, so the lower
power is usually preferable.
Magnification
Brightness is ultimately more important than magnification, just as is the
case with telescopes. A lower magnification, such as 7x to 10x, provides a
very wide field of view and is easy to hand-hold. As magnification
increases, the image becomes dimmer. To compensate, higher power
binoculars must have larger objectives, making them heavier, harder to
hand-hold, and more expensive. 12x to 25x binoculars typically have 60mm
to 100mm objective lenses, making them as large as a pair of small telescopes!
The highest magnification typically available with a binocular is 25x to 30x,
though some higher-power pairs exist. For casual stargazing, especially
for beginning amateur astronomers, low-power binoculars are ideal because they
make finding objects simple due to their wide field, and are easy to use because
you can grab them and go. One exception to this generalization is image
stabilized binoculars such as Canon's Image Stabilizer series of binoculars.
These are available in magnifications up to 18x but still provide a relatively
wide field and are easy to hand hold despite the high magnification thanks to
the electronic stabilization feature that eliminates image shake.
Optical Coatings
There are three general classes of optical
coatings available on binoculars:
Fully Coated, Multi-Coated, and Fully Multi-Coated. Standard optical glass
reflects about 4% of the light that strikes it, so only 96% is transmitted.
While this seems like a lot of light coming through, consider there are usually
7 to 8 pieces of glass in each half of a binocular. This can reduce the
light throughput considerably, effectively turning a 50mm diameter objective
into a 30-40mm objective. Anti-reflective coatings increase the light
transmission of a binocular and reduce internal reflections that also reduce
contrast. Excellent coatings can increase overall light throughput to near
90%.
Fully Coated binoculars have coatings on every lens surface to
increase light transmission.
Multi-Coated binoculars use multiple coatings on some (but not all) of
the lens surfaces. Multiple coatings offer better light transmission
characteristics than the single coatings used in a Fully Coated pair of glass.
Fully Multi-Coated binoculars offer the best coatings. They have
multiple coatings on every lens surface, providing the highest light
transmission and best contrast.
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Light Transmission
For the technically-minded
amongst you: Specifically, the 4% reflection mentioned above is from air-to-glass
surfaces, of which a typical binocular has 10 to 12, counting the prisms.
Light is also absorbed in the glass itself, leading to further light loss.
The actual throughput of an uncoated binocular would be something like
55-60% in this case. Internal reflections would also reduce contrast.
Obviously optical coatings are essential in a good optical system. |
Phase Coatings
One additional type of coating, which differs from the regular optical
coatings described above is phase coating. These are used
exclusively on roof prism binoculars and are applied to the prisms rather than
the lenses themselves. When light passes through the prisms in a roof
prism binocular, each wavelength of light follows a slightly different path and
the different colors of light exit the prisms slightly out of phase. (In
other words, the waves of light no longer line up perfectly.) Phase
coatings reduce this effect, providing better contrast, brightness, and clarity.
Binocular Prices
Binoculars cover a wide range in prices. There are numerous cheap
binoculars out there aimed at casual hikers and sports fans, etc. The
biggest factor to be aware of is that cheap binoculars are typically poorly
built. Not only are the optics less sharp and the optical coatings lower
quality, the overall build quality can be poor and this may cause the binoculars
to lose their alignment, a critical feature for a pair of optical systems such
as a binocular.
For stargazing, where a 40-50mm objective diameter is normally recommended, a
good quality pair of glass with at least multi-coated optics will start around
$150. Some decent beginner's binoculars might be had for around $100, but
keep in mind that the optical and mechanical quality will not be that of the
better, slightly more expensive glass. Fully multi-coated, high quality
(both optically and mechanically) 7x50 or 10x50 binoculars usually cost
$200-300. Larger binoculars (80mm+ objectives) typically cost around $400
and up. While some newer large binoculars are available for significantly
less money, these cheaper large binoculars have been of very inconsistent
quality and would not be highly recommended. The very popular Image
Stabilizer binoculars cost from $350 to $1600, depending on size (the $379
10x30s being the most popular).

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